Cosmetic preparation containing extracts of Tuberaceae

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an active complex comprised of extracts. The active complex contains at least one starting substance, which is extracted as an aqueous extract from real truffles (Tuberaceae) and which is provided in a cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized. A preferred active complex is one that additionally contains a champagne product. Cosmetic preparations containing this active complex lead to an improved stimulation of the immune system, an improved regenerative effect and thus to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an activecomplex comprised of plant extracts.

A large number of cosmetic products have already been described whichcomprise plants or parts of plants that are integrated into theaforesaid products directly or in the form of extracts. These plantsinclude e.g. algae, various herbs known as medicinal plants, cereals,extracts from tea, coffee and fruit, bark extracts and yeast extracts,etc. The plants are used with the aim of utilizing their active agentsfor cosmetic purposes, particularly with the aim of enabling theaforesaid agents to become effective in the upper layers of the skin.Hardly any fungal extracts other than the aforesaid yeast extracts havebeen used for this purpose to date, mainly because nearly no substanceshaving an effect on the skin have become known in this area.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention is to make further plant-based active agentsavailable for cosmetic purposes, in particular to combine differentactive agents stemming from different plants into new active complexes.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, a cosmetic preparation containing plantextracts is provided, which preparation contains an active complexcomprised of at least one starting substance extracted as an aqueousextract from common truffles (Tuberaceae) and is provided in acosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized.

Common truffles include e.g. Burgundy truffles (Tuber uncinatum),Perigord truffles (Tuber melanosporum Vitt.), Kalahari truffles(Terfezia pfeilii Hennings), Piedmont truffles (Tuber magnatum PicoVitt.), lion's truffles (Terfezia leonis Tul.), summer truffles (Tuberaestivum), winter truffles (Tuber brumale Vitt.) and white truffles(Choiromyces maeandriformis). Particularly preferred are truffle speciesare Tuber uncinatum, Tuber melanosporum Vitt., Tuber magnatum PicoVitt., Tuber aestivum, Choiromyces maeandri-formis, Tuber brumale Vitt.and mixtures thereof, particularly Tuber melanosporum Vitt.

Common truffles, which belong to the class of ascomycetes, order ofTuberales, have been appreciated as excellent edible fungi for manycenturies and are of outstanding importance due to their special aroma.Truffles are underground fungi growing in symbiosis with oak tree rootsand forming tuber-like fruiting bodies.

In the extraction process from truffles, several active agents are setfree. It has been found that a non-specific stimulation of the immunesystem can be achieved and the body's antiviral defence mechanismsimproved thanks to the aqueous truffle extracts' contents of essentialamino acids, vitamins B1, B2 and B3, polysaccharides such as letinan anderitadenin, and the stabilization of the aforesaid active agents in acosmetic product. With regard to the skin, this brings about anexcellent regenerative effect and in addition an effect against hairloss.

A special active complex is prepared by incorporating champagneproducts, e.g. a champagne whose liquid components have been removed,e.g. by means of spray-drying. Based on the special bottle fermentationof French wines from Champagne, a sparkling wine is obtained which has ahigh content of polysaccharides, in addition to flavonoids,pro-cyanidolic oligomers (P.C.O.) and tannins. The incorporation of theaforesaid champagne product into the active complex containing truffleextract leads to a clearly improved balance in the ecosystem of theskin, thus strengthening the skin's natural protective barrier andstimulating the activity of the mediators present, i.e. leucotrienes,prostaglandins, interleukins and other cytokinins, particularly insituations which stress the skin.

In addition, the active complex has a toning and an energizing effect aswell as a stabilizing and a softening effect and at the same timecounteracts irritations.

The active complex is provided in a gel while being stabilized. Thestabilization can be achieved e.g. by means of a phospholipid in whichthe pulverized basic components of the active complex, i.e. Tuberaceaeextract and, if desired, champagne product, are dispersed and which isthen distributed in a gel in a homogeneous manner. Due to the aforesaidhomogeneous distribution in a gel, a form of the active complex isobtained which on the one hand is a stable, liquid form of the activeagents and an excellent basis for further processing into variouscosmetic products on the other.

Phospholipids which can be used include e.g. Phosphatidylcholine,Phosphatidylethanolamine, Phosphatidylinositol, Phosphatidylserine,Phosphatidic Acid and lysolecithins as well as mixtures thereof. Knownproducts are e.g. Phoslipon® or NAT®.

The active complex can be contained in the cosmetic preparation in anamount ranging from 0.05 to 25% by weight, the amounts of Tuberaceaeextract and, if desired, champagne product jointly making up 1 to 15% byweight of the active complex.

There are no restrictions as regards the ratio in which Tuberaceaeextract and the champagne product are contained in the active complex.It is preferred that the ratio be in the range from 25:75 to 75:25relative to the agents' dry mass.

Gel-forming agents which can be used as gels include e.g. Carbomer,Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Acacia Gum, Guar Gum, Agar-Agar, alginates andtylosen, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, certainpolyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, montmorillonite.Particularly preferred substances are Carbomer, Xanthan Gum,Carrageenan, Acacia Gum, Guar Gum, Agar-Agar, alginates, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.

The preparation according to the invention further contains cosmeticauxiliaries and carrier substances as they are commonly used in suchpreparations, e.g. water, preservatives, vitamins, colourants, pigmentshaving a colouring effect, scavengers, thickeners, emollients,moisturizing substances, fragrances, alcohols, polyols, esters, shellac,electrolytes, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, copolymers,emulsifiers, waxes, stabilizers.

Further additives or active agents contained in the cosmeticcompositions can be vitamins such as Vitamin A or derivatives thereof,coloured plant extracts, â-carotene, organic water-soluble oroil-soluble sunscreens such as e.g. Octyl Methoxycinnamate; inorganicsunscreens such as TiO₂, ZnO, SiO₂.

Advantageously, a further active agent contained in the preparation canbe Kaolin according to WO96/17588, which Kaolin has been modified withspherical TiO₂ or SiO₂ particles the particle size of which is <5 im,the aforesaid spherical particles making up 0.5 to 10% by weight of thekaolin mixture. In this way, the preparation feels very soft on the skinand has an additional anti-inflammatory effect. The modified Kaolin canbe contained in the range of 0.1-6% by weight relative to the totalweight of the preparation.

Further cosmetic active agents include e.g. emulsifiers, scavengers,moisturizing substances, enzymes, further plant-based active agents,polymers, melanin, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory natural activeagents, asymmetric lamellar aggregates loaded with oxygen according toWO94/00109 or decomposition products of yeasts, algae or other vegetablesubstances produced by means of a gentle ultrasonic decompositionprocess according to WO94/13783.

Cosmetic preparations containing the active complex according to theinvention can be provided as an O/W emulsion, a W/O emulsion or a gel.

Suitable emulsifiers for O/W emulsions include e.g. addition products of2-30 moles ethylene oxide to linear C₈-C₂₂ fatty alcohols, to C₁₂-C₂₂fatty acids and to C₈-C₁₅ alkyl phenols; C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid monoestersand diesters of addition products of 1-30 moles ethylene oxide toglycerine.

Suitable emulsifiers for W/O emulsions include e.g. addition products of2-15 moles ethylene oxide to castor oil; esters of C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acidsand glycerine, polyglycerine, pentaerythrite, sugar alcohols (e.g.sorbitol), polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose); polyalkylene glycols; woolwax alcohols; copolymers of polysiloxane polyalkylpolyether.

Oils and fats which are suitable for forming the oil phase of an O/Wemulsion or a W/O emulsion according to the invention include e.g.mineral oils, fatty acid triglycerides, silicone oils as well asvegetable oils such as Calendula Oil, Jojaba Oil, Avocado Oil, MacadamiaNut Oil, Castor Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Babassu Oil, Grapeseed Oil, KukuiNut Oil, Thistle Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Safflower Oil or a mixtureof several thereof.

In addition, esters or ethers can be used, such as e.g.Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprilate/Hexacaprate/TridecylTrimellitate/Tridecyl Stearate/Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate,Propylene Glycol Dioctanoate 5, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate 2,30Dicaprate, Tridecyl Stearate/Neopentyl Glycol DicaprylateDicaprate/Tridecyl Trimellitate, Neopentyl Glycol Dioctanoate, IsopropylMyristate, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, TrimethylpropaneTriisostearate, Myristyl Ether, Stearyl Ether, Butyl Ether, DicaprylylEther, PPG1-PEG9 Lauroyl Glycol Ether, PPG15 Stearyl Ether, PPG14 ButylEther, Fomblin HC25.

Further emollients used can include compounds such as Stearyl alcohol,Glyceryl monoricinoleate, Glyceryl monostearate, Propane-1,2-diol,Butane-1,3-diol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Isostearate, Stearic Acid,Isobutyl Palmitate, Oleyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Laurate, Decyl Oleate,Octadecane-2-ol, Isocetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, silicone oils suchas Dimethyl Polysiloxane, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate,Polyethylene Glycol, Lanolin, Cocoa Butter, vegetable oils such as MaizeOil, Cotton seed Oil, Olive Oil, mineral oils, Butyl Myristate, PalmiticAcid, etc.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention can be used e.g. insun creams, sun gels, after-sun products, day creams, night creams,moisturizing creams, masks, body lotions, cleansing milk, make-ups,lipsticks, mascara, care sticks, body powder, eye cosmetics, hair masks,hair conditioners, hair shampoos, hair lotions, shower gels, soaps,compact powders. The aforesaid products are manufactured in a way knownto those skilled in the art.

According to the invention, the method for manufacturing a cosmeticpreparation containing plant extracts comprises the steps of

-   -   a) mixing pieces of Tuberaceae with water during a period of        between 1.5 and 12 hours,    -   b) leaving the mixture to soak for 0.5 to 12 hours,    -   c) separating the aqueous phase, removing its liquid components        and sterilizing it,    -   d) dispersing the sterilized powder in an aqueous phospholipid        at at least 10,000 to approx. 15,000 rpm,    -   e) distributing the dispersion in a cosmetically acceptable gel        in a homogeneous manner and neutralizing it,    -   f) bringing the gel into contact with further cosmetic        auxiliaries, carrier substances or active agents or mixtures        thereof and formulating a cosmetic preparation.

The extract can be separated by means of filtration and at the same timedecolourized, if necessary, e.g. using activated carbon.

The invention will hereinafter be explained in more detail by means ofexamples. All amounts are given in % by weight if not indicatedotherwise.

EXAMPLES 1 TO 4 Preparation of the Active Complex

-   -   a) 1 kg Perigord truffles (Tuber melanosporum Vitt.) are cut        into pieces and mixed with 5 l water at at least 1,000 rpm for 5        hours. The mixture is left to soak over night and subsequently        filtered. The clear filtrate is applied onto a spray-drier and        the powder obtained subsequently sterilized.    -   b) 10 bottles of white champagne are spray-dried. The white        powder obtained is subsequently sterilized.

In order to prepare the active complex, the truffle extract and, ifdesired, the same amount of champagne extract is/are added into water,the mixture is combined with an aqueous phospholipid (NAT80®) andstirred at at least 10,000 rpm at room temperature to form a dispersion.Subsequently, the dispersion is brought into contact with the aqueousgel, stirred and neutralized. Glycerine and ethanol can be stirred in asadditional substances in order to improve the mixture's processability.A stabilized active complex having very good storing properties isobtained.

Components of the active complex Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Water, dist. ad100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Carbomer 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 Glycerine 6.0 6.0 6.0— Preservative 0.9 0.9 0.9 1.0 Triethanolamine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethanol6.0 3.0 1.0 — Tuber melanosporum Vitt. 2.0 3.8 3.5 — (dry extract) Tuberaestivum (dry extract) — — — 4.0 Champagne product (spray-dried) 2.0 5.01.5 — Phospholipid 8.0 8.0 8.0 5.0

EXAMPLE 1a

The same composition as in Example 1 is used, except that it contains 6%by weight of the dry extract from Tuber melanosporum Vitt. and 5% byweight of the dried champagne product.

EXAMPLE 4a

The same composition as in Example 4 is used, except that it contains 8%by weight of the dry extract from Tuber aestivum and 5% by weight of adried champagne product is used.

EXAMPLE 5

Cream I

Phase A Water ad 100 Glycerine 5.0 Crosspolymers 0.2 Phase B CetearylAlcohol 1.5 Isohexadecane 3.5 Octyl Stearate 3.0 Phase C Triethanolamine(TEA) 0.2 Phase D Active complex according to Example 1 2.0 Preservative0.5 Perfume oil 0.3

Phase A and Phase B are heated separately up to 65° C. while stirringand combined with each other while stirring. The temperature is reducedto approx. 50° C. and Phase C added. Phase D is stirred in at approx.35° C.

EXAMPLE 6

Cream II

Phase A Water ad 100 Polyacrylamide 1.5 C13-14 Isoparaffin 2.0 Laureth 72.0 Phase B Babassu Oil 2.5 Sesame Oil 7.0 Kaolin according toWO96/17588, Ex. 1 5.0 Phase C Active complex according to Example 2 5.0Perfume oil 0.5

Phase A and Phase B are prepared separately and then combined with eachother at 40° C. while stirring. Once the mixture had been cooled down toapprox. 35° C., Phase C was stirred in.

EXAMPLE 7

Sun Cream

Phase A Water ad 100 Propylene Glycol 3.0 PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer0.5 Benzophenone-3 2.5 Phase B Octyl Stearate 5.0 Isohexadecane 3.5Dimethicone 1.0 Phase C Pongamina extract (Pongamina pinnata) 1.0Shellac 1.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.0Phase D Active complex according to Example 3 8.0 Aloe vera 0.5Preservative 0.5 Perfume oil 0.5

Phase A and Phase B are heated separately up to 65° C. and combined witheach other while stirring. The temperature is reduced to approx. 60° C.and Phase C is added. Phase D is stirred in at approx. 35° C.

EXAMPLE 8

Cream III

Phase A Water ad 100 Glycerine 5.5 Crosspolymer 0.2 Phase B CetearylAlcohol 1.8 Isohexadecane 3.2 Octyl Stearate 3.0 Phase C TEA 0.2 Phase DActive complex according to Example 4 10.0 Preservative 0.5 Perfume oil0.3

EXAMPLE 9

A cream is prepared according to Example 5 containing an active complexaccording to Example la which makes up 10% of the whole composition.

EXAMPLE 10

A sun cream is prepared according to Example 7 containing an activecomplex according to Example 4a which makes up 12% of the wholecomposition.

1. A cosmetic preparation comprising an active complex which iscomprised of at least one aqueous extract of common truffles (Tuberacea)together with spray-dried champagne, wherein the active complex isprovided in a cosmetic acceptable gel and stabilizer and wherein saidcosmetic preparation is manufactured by the following steps: a) mixingpieces of Tuberacea with water for a period of between 1.5 and 12 hours,b) leaving the mixture to soak for 0.5 to 12 hours to create an aqueousand a solid phase, c) separating the aqueous phase from the solid phase,and sterilizing the aqueous phase to form a powder of the sterilizedaqueous phase, d) dispersing the sterilized powder and a spray-driedchampagne in an aqueous phospholipid at at least 10,000 rpm, e)distributing the dispersion of part (d) into a cosmetically acceptablegel in a homogeneous manner and neutralizing, and f) mixing the gel ofpart (e) with further cosmetic auxiliaries, carrier substances, activeagents or mixtures thereof to formulate a cosmetic preparation.
 2. Apreparation according to claim 1 wherein the Tuberaceae are selectedfrom among Tuber uncinatum, Tuber melanosporm Vitt., Tuber magnatum PicoVitt., Tuber aestivum, Choiromyces maeandriformis, Tuber brumale Vitt.and mixtures thereof.
 3. A preparation according to claim 1 wherein theTuberaceae extract and the champagne product are present in the activecomplex in a ratio ranging from 25:75 to 75:25 of the dry weight ofactive complex.
 4. A preparation according to claim 1 wherein thestabilizer comprises a phospholipid.
 5. A preparation according to claim1 wherein the gel is selected from Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan,Acacia Gum, Guar Gum, Agar-Agar, alginates, carboxymethyl cellulose,hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
 6. A preparation accordingto claim 1 wherein the active complex in addition contains at least oneprotective agent against UV radiation.
 7. A preparation according toclaim 6 wherein the said preparation is provided in the form of a creamselected from day creams, night creams, sun creams, body lotions,make-up, eye cosmetics special eye cream, eyeshadow, hair shampoos andshower gels.
 8. The preparation according to claim 1 wherein the activecomplex is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 25% by weight ofthe preparation an the amounts of Tuberaceae extract and spray-driedchampagne are present together from 1 to 15% by weight of the activecomplex.
 9. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic preparation comprisingthe steps of: a) mixing pieces of Tuberacea with water for a period ofbetween 1.5 an 12 hours, b) leaving the mixture to soak for 0.5 to 12hours to create an aqueous and a solid phase, c) separating the aqueousphase from the solid phase, and sterilizing the aqueous phase to form apowder of the sterilized aqueous phase, d) dispersing the sterilizedpowder and a spray-dried champagne in an aqueous phospholipid at atleast 10,000 rpm, e) distributing the dispersion of part (d) into acosmetically acceptable gel in a homogeneous manner and neutralizing,and f) mixing the gel of part (e) with further cosmetic auxiliaries,carrier substances, active agents or mixtures thereof to formulate acosmetic preparation.